While it’s possible—even probable—that pumpkins were served at the 1621 harvest festival that’s now considered the predecessor to Thanksgiving, attendees definitely didn’t dine on pumpkin pie (there was no butter or wheat flour to make crust).

尽管南瓜作为一道菜也许-甚至很可能出现在1621年的丰收节（如今被认为是感恩节的前身）上，但是参加丰收节的人们肯定没有吃南瓜派（因为当时还没有用来做饼皮的黄油或面粉）。

The earliest known recipes for pumpkin pie actually come from 17th-century Europe. Pumpkins, like potatoes and tomatoes, were first introduced to Europe in the Columbian Exchange, but Europeans were more comfortable cooking with pumpkins because they were similar to their native gourds.

最早的南瓜派菜谱实际上来自于17世纪的欧洲。南瓜和土豆以及番茄一样，都是在“哥伦比亚大交换”时期被首次引入欧洲的。但是欧洲人则更愿意用南瓜烹饪，因为南瓜和欧洲本土的葫芦类似。

By the 18th century, however, Europeans on the whole lost interest in pumpkin pie. According to HowStuffWorks, Europeans began to prefer apple, pear, and quince pies, which they perceived as more sophisticated. But at the same time pumpkin pie was losing favor in Europe, it was gaining true staple status in America.

然而到了18世纪，欧洲人则对南瓜派完全失去了兴趣。根据HowStuffWorks，欧洲人开始青睐于苹果、梨子和榅桲派。在欧洲人看来，这些派更加精致。南瓜派在欧洲失去魅力的同时，其在美洲的主食地位也逐渐变得稳固。

In 1796, Amelia Simmons published American Cookery, the first cookbook written and published in the American colonies. Simmons included two recipes for pompkin pudding cooked in pastry crust. Simmons’s recipes call for “stewed and strained” pumpkin, combined with a mixture of nutmeg, allspice, and ginger (yes, it seems our pumpkin spice obsession dates back to at least the 1500s).

1796年， Amelia Simmons出版了一本《美国食谱》，这是第一本在美洲殖民地书写并出版的烹饪书。Simmons在《美国食谱》中给出了用饼皮烹饪南瓜布丁的两种食谱。Simmons的食谱要求使用“经过炖煮和过滤”的南瓜，然后与肉豆蔻、五香粉和生姜的混合物相结合（没错，我们对南瓜香料的痴迷至少可以追溯至1500年代）。

But how did pumpkin pie become so irrevocably tied to the Thanksgiving holiday? That has everything to do with Sarah Josepha Hale, a New Hampshire-born writer and editor who is often called the “Godmother of Thanksgiving.” In her 1827 abolitionist novel Northwood, Hale described a Thanksgiving meal complete with “fried chicken floating in gravy,” broiled ham, wheat bread, cranberry sauce, and, of course, pumpkin pie. For more than 30 years, Hale advocated for Thanksgiving to become a national holiday, writing regular editorials and sending letters to five American presidents. Thanksgiving was a symbol for unity in an increasingly divided country, she argued.

那么，南瓜派是如何变得和感恩节密不可分的呢？这一切都要归功于 Sarah Josepha Hale，一位出生在新罕布什尔的作家和编辑。她经常被称为是“感恩节教母”。在她1827年所写的废奴小说《诺斯伍德》中，感恩节大餐包括浸着肉汁的炸鸡、烤火腿、小麦面包、蔓越莓酱，还有南瓜派。30多年来，Hale一直赞同将感恩节变成一个全国性的节日。她定期撰写社论并给5位美国总统写信。她表示，对于一个分裂日益严重的国家而言，感恩节是团结的象征。

Abraham Lincoln eventually declared Thanksgiving a national holiday in 1863. Southern governors reluctantly complied with the presidential proclamation, but cooks in the South developed their own unique regional traditions. In the South, sweet potato pie quickly became more popular than New England’s pumpkin pie (mostly because sweet potatoes were easier to come by than pumpkins). Now, pumpkin pie reigns deliciously supreme as the most popular holiday pie across most of the United States, although the Northeast prefers apple and the South is split between apple and pecan, another Southern staple.

1863年，亚伯拉罕·林肯最终宣布感恩节为全国性的节日。南方各州的州长们勉强服从了总统的这一公告，但是南方的厨师们却形成了自己独有的烹饪传统。在南方，红薯派很快就比新英格兰的南瓜派更受欢迎（主要是由于南方的红薯比南瓜更容易获得）。如今，南瓜派作为美国绝大多数地区最受欢迎的假日美食在美味程度上拔得头筹。尽管如此，美国的东北地区还是更加偏爱苹果派，而南方地区则偏爱苹果派和山核桃派（另一种南方主食）。

原文来源：心理牙线

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